Just when I was thinking Louisville should have another awesome Mexican restaurant, I came across this article in the Courier-Journal by Nancy Miller, so I had to share it with you.
NRH.
El Mariachi, adjacent to a Mexican butcher, grocery and bakery, is
tucked away in a strip mall off La Grange Road. Finding the restaurant
and trifecta of shops was a delightful discovery in a week that was
otherwise short on delights.
If the restaurant's name suggests
you'll be serenaded by strolling musicians, don't be disappointed at
their absence. It's the food that sets a rhythm that is as rife with
intensity as it is with sedate nuances that give you intervals to savor
the difference. Chef Jacova de Jesus Cruz's menu is stirred up with
bombshells of flavor but also stumbles along the way.
My son,
Alex, and I decided to jump around the menu, not thinking in terms of
appetizers or entrees or side dishes. That made the dinner experience
fun but apparently challenged the kitchen. His sopes and tamales arrived
at the table almost 15 minutes before my enchiladas and chili relleno.
That would have been bad enough if I had been able to sip on a glass of
wine while I waited on my food. Unfortunately, El Mariachi serves beer
but not wine. Being hungry and wine-deprived, I was cranky.
After
what seemed like eons, the server brought my enchiladas and chili
relleno. And — whoof — she was gone. Although it had taken a long time
to be served, it took only a second for me to realize that my meal was
cold. I waited and I waited, but the server didn't return.
Finally,
I got up from the table and approached her to tell her my food was
cold. She immediately retrieved it and returned to the kitchen. Another
15 minutes passed. There was a direct correlation between the second
round of waiting and my worsening mood. When at last my meal arrived, I
wasn't in the most positive frame of mind.
Let me be clear about
our server. She seemed genuinely concerned about the delay, which I am
sure was not her fault. I believe she simply did not have the experience
to handle the situation more smoothly.
Alex's sopes, one beef and
one chicken, each $2.99, were good choices. The masa was just crunchy
enough on the outside and soft but substantial enough on the inside not
to allow the meat to become soggy. A chili relleno ($2.99) was testament
that an egg-battered poblano pepper oozing with melted cheese can be
one of life's little pleasures.
I rarely order tamales because the
ratio of meat to masa so often favors the masa. El Mariachi's chicken
tamale ($3.99) suffered from such a malady. The beef enchilada with red
sauce ($6.99) was so saucy it was practically an enchilada in soup. The
profusion of sauce dwarfed the enchilada, diminishing the flavor of both
and making for an unattractive presentation.
The menu presented
other interesting choices, not the least of which included three fajitas
($11.99 to $13.99), mole poblano ($9.49) and camarones Acapulco
($11.99), shrimp with jalapeno and bacon.
Only a few days later,
the cloud of poor service experience had drifted and I was in El
Mariachi's neighborhood. I returned, this time for a taco fix. It was
the first of many that are sure to follow.
Kentucky's legendary
Colonel had his blend of secret spices that made his buckets of chicken
famous around the world. The magic in El Mariachi's tacos ($2.25 to
$3.49) is likely an equally secret blend of chilies and spices, and it
deserves its fair share of accolades.
If I had not been harried
and on the run after a late lunch, I would have followed my carne asada
tacos with a couple of others, perhaps the pastor (marinated pork) or
lengua (beef tongue). Tongue may be an acquired taste (and texture), but
don't rule it out until you have tried it. And it's always fun to order
when dining with folks who furrow their brows at anything other than
meat and potatoes.
Not only were the tacos delicious, but the
service was great. As I was preparing to leave, the same server and I
smiled at each other and exchanged a knowing look. There had been a
bumpy first experience. It happens. I left happy and told her I would be
back. It will be soon.
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Daniel Duncan, proprietor of Greenhaus,
the eclectic beer/wine/local products/terrarium store/performance
space, is adding another layer to the popular Germantown business. Bike Ride for Two will offer packages that allow couples (romantic or platonic) to tour Louisville by bike at their own pace.
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Nancy Hinchliff
